Acquiring a Sauna
Filling the Gaps
Change in Plans
Effects and Results
4'x8' sheets of hardboard were cut five feet long. These 4'x5' pieces were used for the sides, even though the inside length was 4' 1.5". The small gaps would be covered later. Each 4'x5' sheet was placed inside the frame, with the smooth side facing in, and attached to it using #6 x 5/8" pan-head sheet-metal screws. Unfortunately, the hardboard buckled in at the center more than anticipated, so I decided to add an additional vertical member in the center of each side. After the hardboard was attached to this vertical, with #6 x 5/8" pan-head sheet-metal screws, the buckling was reduced to an acceptable level. These verticals were wedged in between the Trapezoids, so they did not need L-brackets to keep them in place.
This shows one of the added center verticals.
The next step was to cut pieces of hardboard for the ends, and then attach them on the inside of the of the frame, with the smooth side facing in, using #6 x 5/8" pan-head sheet-metal screws.
The smaller pieces of hardboard complete
the front and back of the sauna.
At this point, the frame was flipped over onto its front side (door opening), a 4' x 5' piece of hardboard was placed on the floor in front of it, and then the frame was flipped back into place so that it was sitting on top of this piece of hardboard. A black marking pen was used to mark the hardboard so it could be cut to become the bottom.
After this piece was cut, it was used as a template to mark, and cut a piece of Styrofoam insulation the same size. The hardboard was screwed to the bottom of the frame with #6 x 5/8" pan-head sheet- metal screws, and then the unit was dropped onto the piece of insulation that was cut for it. There seemed to be no reason to glue this piece to the hardboard. The weight of the sauna would hold it in place.
At this point, a 4' x 5' piece of hardboard was placed on top of the frame. A black marking pen was used to mark the hardboard so it could be cut to become the top.
After this piece was cut, it was used as a template to mark, and cut a piece of insulation the same size. I put the hardboard and insulation aside until after I did the wiring. When the wiring was finished, the top was screwed to the top of the frame with #6 x 5/8" pan-head sheet-metal screws, and then the insulation was placed on top of it. There seemed to be no reason to glue this piece to the hardboard; it should stay in place by resting on top of the unit.