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Acquiring a Sauna
The Frame
Hardboard
Wiring
Lamp Guard
Filling the Gaps
Insulation
Change in Plans
The Door
The Vent
Final Touches
Epilogue
Sauna Sessions
Effects and Results






The Vent
Page Eleven

Even with a door made out of two pieces of canvas, I eventually found that the sauna was still retaining enough moisture, and toxins from my body, that I needed to add a ventilation system. The air could get very "thick", and a few times I found it difficult to breathe!


After considering two or three options, I decided to use a 1 foot long piece of 2" diameter PVC. I cut a 2" diameter hole in the top of the sauna, and mounted a 2" PVC flange, over the hole. By employing a 2" PVC cap, I can close the vent for pre-heating, and then remove the cap before I enter the sauna for a session. This has proved to work very well to allow just the right amount of ventilation, as air is pulled in past the gaps in the "door", and then exits through the vent in the top, without any noticeable drop in temperature!

Flange: Infrared-Lamp Sauna
The flange is mounted in the top of the sauna.


The PVC pipe is slipped into the flange: Infrared-Lamp Sauna
The PVC pipe is slipped into the flange.


The PVC cap is used during pre-heating: Infrared-Lamp Sauna
The cap is put on the pipe for pre-heating,
and then removed during the session.